With a massive space on the outer circle of Connaught Place, Bombay Brasserie brings its pop pan-Indian offerings to Delhi. The L shaped floor is sequestered into distinct zones, offering a setting for every occasion. Its menu is even more varied, listing dishes from across the breadth of the country and (sometimes) drawing attention to where the core ingredient was sourced from. There is a table for every setting - a sunny room with colourful tiles and graffiti for casual meals; a 30-feet bar table spanning across the restaurant; a hall with large marble-top dining tables for larger groups; and a quiet corner with a swing and floral fairy lights. 'Aam Papad Paneer' featured juliennes of Aam Papad sourced from Amritsar on pliant Paneer, lapped in a tamarind and aam-choor masala. It was topped with slices of fried lotus root, which had lost their crispness and did not really add much contrast to the dish. The provenance of 'Old Delhi Murg Boti with Butter Roomalis' was a bit harder to tell. 'Sliced Sirki-Pyaaz', 'Green Chutney' and a greasy 'Chicken Boti' lay on dry and brittle 'Roomalis'. The chicken was tender but more akin to tawa fry than Boti Kababs, and the papery roomali rotis quickly went soggy underneath the chutney and pyaaz. The 'Chur Chur Parantha', spiked with a moreish chilli masala, was more Parantha-like than ‘chur chur’ - flaky only on surface and happier being torn into large chunks. The bar features cocktails with strong Desi twists, but my classic 'Daiquiri' was completely off the mark. Served in a Margherita glass with a thick salt rim, it was a jumble of too much sugar, too little lime and a lot of white rum. I wrapped up with an 'Amritsari Kulfa' – a plate of balanced rabri, mellow phirini, chalkey kulfi and a topping of rose and khus syrup. Less than the sum of its parts.
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