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This may be the world’s most famous Indian restaurant; it certainly is among Delhi’s most expensive. Such celebrities as Bill Clinton and Bruce Springsteen have come here not just for the kababs but for the raan (a tandoori leg of lamb), the dairy-rich Dal Bukhara, and tandoori chicken made as it should be, from small, free-range birds and with no food colour. The kabab-heavy menu has remained largely unchanged since 1978 as has the decor. Not very comfortable seating guarantees that you will not linger over your meal so they can sell your table again. No cutlery is offered, only an apron is provided and guests are encouraged to tear the naans and hunks of tandoori mutton apart with their bare hands. Vegetarians get paneer, aloo and gobhi, but this is a meat lover’s haunt.
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