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It started out as a brash new kid on the block, but it has settled down into uneventful middle age. Standards tend to vary according to which branch you are at, but the dishes that you can usually depend on are the kebabs – large portions, succulent and optimally spiced – and the kulchas. The latter are distinguished by their generous amounts of aloo/gobhi/onion filling. It is a good place for a slightly formal North Indian meal, several notches up from a Pandara Road joint.