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Hardly anybody remembers this, but the Taj Palace was the hotel that popularised dim sums in Delhi in the 1980s at the Tea House of the August Moon. Also on the menu was Peking Duck with all the trimmings. Except that you could not find good duck in Delhi in the 1980s, so the dish was made with chicken instead. The Tea House is long gone and its successor, Blue Ginger suffered from having an ugly room and a cuisine (Vietnamese) that Delhi did not like. Now Blue Ginger is also gone but the room remains roughly the same (new upholstery, though) and the restaurant at the old Tea House location is called Spicy Duck. This time around, they can do real Peking Duck, and it is carved and served at your table with panache. The dim sums are back too, and the menu is all Chinese, though it steers clear of the Sichuan style that made the Taj’s Chinese food famous. This is the food of the overseas Chinese in Malaysia and Singapore, and the flavours are different from those on the mainland; some may be sweeter.