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Manu Chandra is easily the greatest chef-restaurateur of his generation. But do not go to Fatty Bao expecting to find the superlative food that made him famous. This is Chandra’s stab at the Auntyji (and Uncleji) market. The food, nominally Pan-Asian, is over-seasoned in the manner of a fast-food chain that seeks to appeal to a mass audience. And it works. The day I went, the restaurant was heaving with ladies who lunch and the harsh sound levels made normal conversation a little difficult. But such was the pressure on tables that guests were queueing up and - I am sure - the profits were piling up. Do not judge Chandra by the food here, all of which is made with a heavy hand or by the desperately unhip nature of this Auntyji Ki Canteen. This is a restauranteur, at the height of his powers, segmenting the market and succeeding brilliantly.