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For a city that has taken so kindly to shawarmas (rotisseries at Malayali-run Arabic joints rarely spin dry), its close cousin, the doner kababs seem to have had a tough run. Doner Castle in Anna Nagar shut shop some years ago (obscured due to the metro construction mess) and we did not see much else up until Doner Kebab Bistro popped on a quiet Nungambakkam bylane.