After shifty affairs with Burmese, Thai and even, the tad gauche, ‘Chettinese, Chennai is a showing resolute commitment for Pan-Asian restaurants. Asian Station opened to a great reception in Anna Nagar, also because we are tired of driving to Nungambakkam every other night. At first, I mistook it for a new outpost of the Speciality Restaurant Empire; an expansive and cheerful interior design, playing-it-safe-but-exotic dishes on the menu and irregularly concerned staff are indeed a bit ‘Asia Kitchen’-esque. Originality does show up in its zestful promoter-driven operations and, Dim sum selection. Rice Pearl Balls from Shanghai are rarely seen in Chennai and they come out of the steamer looking a bit hung-over at Asian Station – dishevelled long grained rice stuck on slightly dry minced-chicken balls. Chicken gets its most delicious rendition in another Dim sum dish - intensely toothsome Char Siu Chicken, though wrapped in rubbery Bao skin. I was hoping to enjoy a theatre of stir frying through the central kitchen window, but could only gaze at bobbing toques and hairnets above a thick band of frosted glass. However, my bone-dry Crispy Lamb offered me the solace of not missing out on any remarkable wok-skill. Asian Station works as well as most cut and dried Pan-Asian eateries with Indonesian gorengs and Thai/Malyasian Curries. Pity, because it does show some potential to stand out.
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