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The Capital’s popular five-star Dhaba has trucked across the country on Azure Hospitality (the guys behind Mamagoto) to Chennai. It retains the premium Punjabi-pop with heart (& kitchen) of a Dhaba. My meal began shakily with a tart Lassi that missed the customary Dhaba-Malai. It preceded a misadventure into the Awadh with Galouti Kababs roughly the taste and texture of wet atta on a thin tasteless mini parantha. A silken Dal Makhani held its texture sans heavy-cream, thereby passing my Punjabi-acid test. A final high was the Dhaba’s signature Balti Meat. Sturdy, brown and built on deeply savoury caramelized onions. It brimmed on a little balti with a tempting Nalli-end (go for it!) of a lamb shank sticking out.