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A Mess in Chennai is the equivalent of a Dhaba in Delhi. Most refer to tuckshops serving either South Indian snacks or non-vegetarian meals food from the Chettinad or Madurai region. A step-up is a Bhavan or Vilas, which retain the rustic fare but add some upholstery and air conditioning. Kovai Alankar Vilas serves fare from the Kovai (Coimbatore) or Kongu region in Tamil Nadu. At the foothills of the Nilgiris, the cuisine is marked by a preference for herbs instead of dry spices. What stood out during my meals at Kovai Alankar Vilas was light preparation with full bodied flavours and the fantastic quality of mutton.