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Nestled in a quiet basement, the well-lit setting is that of a classy fine dine. The ‘anannas ka panna’ makes for a wonderful start, as does the paya pudhina shorba. Vegetarians have some excellent options in kababs – creamy Peshawari paneer tikkas, ‘chenne se bhare kumbh’ of cottage cheese and dry fruit-stuffed button mushrooms, ‘gucchi aur draksh ki galavat’ (a melting fried mince of dried black grapes with mushroom), and inimitable ‘chonk ki tikki’ or patties of potato, cheese, green peas and sultanas. Carnivores are not far behind, with the ‘jaitooni murgh siamirch’ (chicken seekh wrapped around cheese and green chilli, coated in minced olives) or fatty ‘najuk gosht ki seekh’. Coupled with an olive or potato-pomegranate kulcha, the quality of the kababs fortifies the restaurant’s moniker. The mains are well above average, too – lahsooni palak with the sweet crunch of water chestnuts, or martbaan ka gosht, with its spiced mutton stock seeping into the core of tender meat. Finish with a bowl of the royal khoobani ka meetha (cream-soaked, aromatic, stewed apricots).