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When I am queried about Chinese restaurants in the city, the inexpensive and unintimidating variety, my general suggestion is an order of beer and Crab Claws at Dynasty. It serves a similar menu to about half-a-dozen vintage Chinese eateries in the same kind of space at comparable prices, but Dynasty tends to get most of my peeves covered. Orders move briskly, and servers like Tyron have served enough Fish Ball Tofu Soup in their day to offer ‘One by Two’ without asking. A major part of the charm is the Darjeeling-born part owner Chef Francis, who often runs the kitchen in a white t-shirt and denim 3/4ths that went out of fashion a decade ago. If you ask nicely, he will send across a bowl of soup with the Momos and a single unassuming Dalley Chilli that will make you sweat throughout the meal.