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Up until a decade ago, the ageing founder of the brand could be found in a small hole-in-the-wall in the middle lane of Khan Market, which itself was a much-more modest market than its present avatar. Today, the brand has spread to other outlets but retains something of its original essence. Not much here for vegetarians, it is true, but for a trip down memory lane, few snacks beat hot, spicy kababs in a roomali roti, with plenty of onion rings and mint sauce in yoghurt to douse the fire.