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I have a lot of affection for The Great Wall. It is one of suburban Mumbai's classic Chinese restaurants, with a wonderfully sunny room at lunch and a menu of surprisingly-authentic Cantonese-style favourites, often tweaked by chefs from Singapore. It was, as far as I know, the first restaurant in India to serve a proper Peking duck in three different courses and even today the food never lets you down. It has been beset for years with rumours that it will give way to a Japanese restaurant. Fortunately, the Nairs of the Leela Group have decided (so far at least) to stick with this Mumbai classic.