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Can a genuine Italian restaurant work in a country where 'Italian food' means pizza and pasta? The success of Vetro shows that it can but only at the very top end of the market. The restaurant runs with the assistance of Rome's celebrated Hassler Hotel and though the Hassler's Michelin-starred, much-celebrated Imago restaurant does modern (Japanese-influenced) Italian, Vetro sticks to fine dining Italian. The pasta dishes are the sort you would find in Rome --- the pasta is the point not the sauce --- and the meat dishes are cooked to the highest standards of authenticity.