Past the regal upholstery of Jamavar and sea-flanked ‘chess’ garden, China XO is the unappointed crown jewel of Leela Palace. Befittingly, Chef Soon Wah Cheong serves Hargow (considered to be metier of a Dim sum chef) so delicate that it makes you want to kidnap him. Hakka braised Kurobuta Pork Belly is sublime but ill-paired with fried Man Tau buns. I was happier to chomp it between a pinenut-studded Fried Rice. My Filo-pastry Wrapped Sea bass was fried to textural contrast but a tad tedious after the second mouthful. I would gladly sidestep the mushy Avocado Pudding with Tapioca Pearls for bold Crisp Sesame Pancakes.
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