Bagundi showers adulations on the memory of Telugu cuisine, which has an undeniable kinship to sour and hot flavours. Pickles and chutneys are bright splashes of paint on a canvas of lentils, rice and protein. The simple vada served here is a labour of love, where the exterior shatters into a thousand shards with the touch of your tongue while the heart waxes eloquent about softness and warmth. The thali truly amplifies the cultural identity of the region with both vegetarian and non-vegetarian versions listed on the menu. The 'Vegetarian Thali' is a broad sweep of delicacies reflecting both the bounty of the land and technical finesse. The 'Dondakaya Fry' is a spill of nuts and spices among lush strips of ivy gourd while the 'Vegetable Kurma' hides within its viscous gravy velvet orbs of aubergine. To break the one-note texture of the gravies and curries, textural contrasts are offered by way of light-as-air papads, dal vada and puffed puris. Seat yourself in the delicately carved wooden benches, a fitting contrast to the exposed brick walls of the restaurant.