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In the lane that leads off right opposite Palika Bazar into the Middle Circle, the not-very-easy to find Samavar (it’s down a corridor with little signage) is a part-Kashmiri Pandit, part-amorphous North Indian eatery. Perfectly comfortable and respectable, if not ‘cool’ it serves no-fuss lunches to those who work in the neighbourhood as well as Kashmiri food. The best items on it include Nadur churma (a crisp snack featuring lotus stem deep fried), dum aloo – possibly the tastiest potato dish on the planet, plain haak, chuck wangun (sic) a sour, spicy gravy of aubergines and mutton kofta.