Floyd Cardoz has always been at least a decade ahead of his peers. As chef at New York’s massively-influential Tabla, he introduced the flavours of India to sophisticated diners who only thought of Indian food in terms of curry. For this, his first venture in his home city of Mumbai, he has created a menu that is astonishing for its originality and spark. Dabeli, a street snack that only became popular after Floyd left India, gets re-invented, and theplas, pulled pork, vindaloo masalas and some local flavours get refreshing twists. This is great food, simply made (no molecular tricks in this kitchen), and served with warmth in pleasant surroundings in the centre of the old mill district of Parel. The service, overseen by the co-owners, is knowledgeable, polite and no-nonsense with neither the snobbery nor the obsequiousness that some trendy places exhibit.