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There is a tradition of calling all coffee shops at ITC hotels, ‘Pavilion’. Starting with the stunning Pavilion at Chennai’s ITC Grand Chola, the concept has now been modernised. Sadly, the ITC Gardenia’s restaurants were built to an older model, so the buffet here is not as vast as the competition’s, owing to the paucity of display space. But the restaurant makes up for this in two ways. The À la carte menu is vast and interesting, going all the way from a perfect club sandwich to astonishingly good kathi rolls. And then there is the Indian food that the ITC is justly famous for. It is rare to find biryanis with such complexity of flavour and tender meat in any restaurant buffet anywhere in India.