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One word of caution: make sure you are really hungry when you go to eat at Jamavar. And if you like your meat, do not forget to try the gosht chaamp tajdar (lamb rack marinated with chilli, allspice, and cardamom). For vegetarians, the palak benazeer, a simple patty made with spinach and corn kernels, is delicious. It is not dry, and retains the flavour of the spinach well. For main course, the lobster neeruli, a delicate curry of lobster meat cooked in spiced shallots and tomato; eaten best with rice, or maybe a paratha, this is easily the highlight of the meal. But for something slightly rustic – dig into the gosht ki nihari – lamb shanks and chops cooked overnight in an old school Indian angeethi.