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After wallowing in the shadows of Dakshin and Pan-Asian, the all-day dining restaurant formerly known as Baywatch has transformed into a brighter, smarter Delhi Pavilion. From its smart new look inspired by Red Fort’s floral motifs and the overworked selfie booth (a tribute to a present-day obsession), to an eclectic menu that mirrors the national capital’s cosmopolitan culture, Delhi Pavilion is an overdue addition to the city’s vibrant dining scene. A meal at Delhi Pavilion is like taking a food walk across the city. If the Delhi Fish Fry replicates the top-selling item of the famous Ganesh Machchiwala of Karol Bagh, the Mutton Seekh Mirza does a competent job of reproducing the silky softness of the kababs at Karim’s. The Mutton Tandoori Chaamp, marinated in malt vinegar spiked with sugarcane juice, has the texture of a barrah kabab, but its marination gives it a distinctive sweet and sour taste. Bania contributions to Delhi’s cornucopia of cuisines are honoured with dishes such as Khasta Kachori Chaat and Dal Biscooti Delhi, an evolved form of the popular Dal Moradabadi, in the same way as the Chicken Makhni Burger and Meat Hoggers Pizza are expressions of the city’s evolving contemporary cuisine. Go to Delhi Pavilion and re-discover the many tastes and flavours that define Dilli ka Khana.