Celini’s has had its ups and downs. In an earlier avatar it was your basic pizza and pasta place whose kitchen was also used for room service for Grand Hyatt guests. This version does not ditch the original pizza-and-pasta formula but the restaurant has a much more up-market look about it. There are three main sections --- a dimly-lit area by the door, a brighter space near the open kitchen, and a well-lit buzzing area at the other end --- each with its own character. The basic difference between the older version and this incarnation, however, is the emphasis on the food. The emphasis on authenticity works. Celini’s is raking in the big bucks. Perhaps, just as Celini’s has changed over the years, the city’s palate has also developed to the extent that authentic flavours now go down better with diners. Though the greeting/phone answering aspect is weak, the wait staff are terrific, eager to please and always on the ball.