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The Leela Group's Indian restaurants suffer from an identity crisis. Many of the chefs are trained by Mrs Leela Nair, so the chain has the best Malayali food of any Indian hotel group. But the restaurants also have to cater to the demand for North Indian food, which makes their menus a bit of a mishmash. Despite these contradictions, Jamavar, which is small and intimate, usually manages to strike a fair balance between North and South.