As a classy fine-dining option if you are in the mood for authentic North Indian fare, Kangan is a good location for discerning gourmands to celebrate the complex spicing and rich flavours of this cuisine. And in five-star comfort no less, with the restaurant’s décor reflecting an elegant sensibility: gold, beige and brown-leather tones, a few subtly colourful rustic elements thrown in for a sophisticated dhaba touch, and a backlit wall fixture decorated with bangles to pay homage to the establishment’s name. The restaurant attempts to bring alive the flair of the khansamas of yore with a twist to cater to modern tastes. The rich gilawati kababs, for example, are crumbling and soaked in ghee, imbued with the smoky flavour of cloves, and an excellent pineapple tikka marries the natural sweetness and tang of the fruit with a fragrant marinade of spices. There is an accomplished list of kababs to choose from, actually, but if you get to the main course, an array of items in melting paneer is a most excellent go-to for the vegetarian set. It is the small touches that really make a difference though, such as the pickled onions that go into the khatta pyaz subzi, or the crisp-but-soft textures of the scrambled ajwaini naan that complements just about every gravy on the list, or the undeniable richness of the classic black lentil dal Kangan, which just has to have been made with love.
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